PL
UAHair oiling is one of the oldest care methods – and one of the few with solid research behind it. The problem is that most people do it wrong: too much oil, on dry hair, or an oil that doesn’t suit their hair type. The result is the opposite of what they wanted – heavy, greasy, dull hair.
This article is for anyone who wants to start oiling their hair, or already does but isn’t happy with the results.
Why does hair oiling work?
Oils work in two ways: they penetrate the hair or they coat its surface. This distinction is key when choosing a product.
Penetrating oils
Some oils, such as coconut oil, can penetrate inside the hair, so they don’t just work on the surface. They fill gaps in the cortex, reduce water absorption during washing (limiting swelling and mechanical damage) and strengthen the hair from within. A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (Rele and Mohile, 2003) found that coconut oil, alone among the oils tested, clearly reduced protein loss from hair – both before and after washing.
Coating oils
Oils with larger molecules, such as argan, jojoba or sunflower, work mainly on the surface, forming a protective layer. They smooth the hair, reduce friction, add shine and help protect it from heat, cold and humidity.
How to choose an oil for your hair type
The choice depends mainly on two things: your hair’s porosity and its thickness.
Porosity – how to check it
Porosity shows how easily hair absorbs moisture and how fast it loses it. Simple test: drop a clean, dry hair into a glass of water.
- Sinks quickly → high porosity
- Floats for a while, then sinks → medium porosity
- Stays on the surface → low porosity
| Porosity | Hair characteristics | Recommended oils |
|---|---|---|
| Low | Hard to moisturise, product sits on the surface | Light penetrating oils: coconut, babassu, argan |
| Medium | Easy to care for, responds well to most oils | Argan, jojoba, sunflower, almond |
| High | Absorbs moisture fast but loses it fast too, frizzes | Heavier coating oils: castor, flaxseed, avocado |
Hair thickness
- Fine hair – avoid heavy oils (castor, lots of coconut) that weigh it down; choose argan, jojoba or grapeseed.
- Thick, coarse hair – tolerates heavier oils; coconut, castor and avocado coat thick strands well.
- Curly and wavy hair – usually high porosity and needs more moisture; responds well to flaxseed, castor and coconut oil.
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The most popular hair oils
Coconut oil
The best-researched penetrating hair oil. Reduces protein loss, softens and moisturises. For: thick, dry, curly and wavy hair; high and medium porosity. Avoid with: fine hair (weighs it down) and low porosity (may not penetrate). Note: solidifies below 24°C – warm it in your hands before use.
Argan oil
A light oil rich in vitamin E and fatty acids – one of the most versatile. Smooths, adds shine and protects against heat. For: all hair types, especially fine and chemically treated hair. Bonus: great as heat protection before blow-drying or straightening.
Jojoba oil
Technically not an oil but a liquid wax – its structure is closest to natural sebum. Moisturises without greasiness. For: all hair types; especially recommended for an oily scalp with dry ends. Bonus: long shelf life, doesn’t go rancid as quickly as other oils.
Castor oil
A thick, rich oil that forms a strong protective layer. Strengthens ends and reduces breakage. For: thick, dry, damaged hair; high porosity. Avoid with: fine hair and an oily scalp. Note: very thick – mix with a lighter oil (e.g. argan) at 1:3.
Flaxseed oil
One of the richest in omega-3 – especially recommended for curly hair. Defines curls and reduces frizz. For: curly and wavy hair, high porosity. Note: short shelf life (up to 6 months) – keep it in the fridge.
Avocado oil
A rich, nourishing penetrating oil with vitamins A, D and E and fatty acids. Works well on damaged, dry hair. For: dry hair damaged by chemicals or heat; thick strands. Less suitable: fine hair – it can weigh it down.
Grapeseed oil
The lightest oil here – practically undetectable on the hair. Doesn’t weigh down or grease, adds a subtle shine. For: fine hair, low porosity, an oily scalp. Bonus: a good base for mixing with heavier oils.
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Oiling methods
Before washing (pre-poo)
Apply oil to dry hair before shampooing, leave for at least 30 minutes (ideally a few hours or overnight) and wash out. The oil penetrates or coats the hair before it meets water; shampoo removes the oil but the protection and moisture remain. Suits all hair types, especially dry and damaged hair and anyone using sulphate shampoos. The best method for beginners – if you use too much, washing corrects it.
After washing (on damp or dry hair)
Apply a small amount to washed, slightly damp or dry hair and don’t rinse it out. It forms a protective layer, seals the cuticle, adds shine and reduces frizz. Especially good for fine hair (a little light oil) and low-porosity hair that doesn’t absorb oil with pre-poo. Needs precise dosing – too much means greasy hair.
Overnight
Apply oil to dry hair in the evening, cover your head with a cotton scarf or silk cap and wash it out in the morning. The long contact time allows deeper penetration – an intensive moisturising treatment for very dry, damaged, curly and high-porosity hair. Not for everyone – some people don’t like sleeping with oil in their hair, and cotton pillowcases absorb oil, so silk or satin is better.
How to oil your hair – step by step (pre-poo)
- Measure – start small: a teaspoon for short hair, a tablespoon for long hair.
- Warm the oil – stand a small bowl in warm water or rub it between your palms.
- Apply – start with the ends (most damaged), then mid-lengths, and the roots only if your scalp is dry.
- Massage the scalp – if you include a scalp massage; skip this step with an oily scalp.
- Cover with a towel or cap – warmth helps absorption; at least 30 minutes, ideally 1–2 hours.
- Wash out – you usually need to shampoo twice; applying shampoo to dry hair before wetting it helps emulsify the oil.
The most common mistakes
- Too much oil – the most common mistake; a little works better than a lot
- The wrong oil for your hair – a heavy oil on fine hair always ends up greasy
- Oiling too rarely – one application won’t give lasting results; oiling works cumulatively
- Leaving oil on dirty hair – apply to clean hair (after-wash method) or wash it out (pre-poo)
- Rubbing hard – apply gently; strong friction can damage the outer layer of the hair
How often to oil your hair
| Hair condition | Method | How often |
|---|---|---|
| Healthy, normal | Pre-poo or after washing | Once a week |
| Dry, damaged | Pre-poo or overnight | Twice a week |
| Oily | After washing (ends only) | Once every 2 weeks |
| Curly | Pre-poo or after washing | 1–2 times a week |
| Fine | After washing (tiny amount) | Once every 1–2 weeks |
FAQ
Does oiling make hair grow faster?
Directly – there’s no scientific evidence. Indirectly – healthy, moisturised hair breaks less, so it may reach the length you want sooner. The scalp massage that goes with oiling may improve microcirculation, which is sometimes linked to better-nourished follicles.
Can different oils be mixed?
Yes – mixing is good practice. It combines a penetrating oil (e.g. coconut) with a lighter coating oil (e.g. argan). A popular blend: castor + argan (1:3) – strong protection without weighing the hair down.
Does oiling help with hair loss?
Oiling doesn’t treat the causes of hair loss (hormonal, genetic, deficiencies), but it can reduce breakage-related loss. If hair loss is heavy, see a dermatologist or trichologist.
Should I oil my scalp or only the hair?
It depends on your scalp. With a dry, itchy scalp, oiling the scalp makes sense (especially jojoba or coconut). With an oily scalp, oil only the lengths and ends – excess oil on an oily scalp makes greasiness worse.
Which oil is best for men’s hair and beard?
Argan and jojoba are the most versatile choices for men – they work well on both hair and beard. Jojoba is especially good for facial skin because it resembles sebum. One product can do both jobs.
Summary
Hair oiling works – but only with the right oil and method. Match it to your hair’s porosity and thickness, use the right amount and be consistent. Start with the pre-poo method and argan or coconut oil – the safest start for most hair types – and give it 3–4 weeks before judging the results.
Want a hairdresser to assess your hair and advise on care? Drop in to Haircut Express – no appointment, 7 days a week, in 25 salons in Warsaw and Ząbki and in Poznań, Szczecin, Wrocław, Łódź, Bydgoszcz and Siedlce – find your nearest salon.
Read also
- High-porosity hair – what is it and how to care for it?
- Hair burnt by bleaching – how to save it?
- Straight hair without a straightener
- How often should you get a haircut?
